Walking arround
High up along the nave you can admire the stained glass windows showing the coats of arms of noble Sarteanese families, as well as numerous paintings of the Siennese and Florentine schools of the 15th and 16th centuries along the walls.
To one side of the square stands Palazzo Cennini 1495, with its terracotta brick and travertine façade and the coat of arms of the Cellini Salamandri family showing a stylised salamander surrounded by flames. Across the road, a stone plaque close to a doorway testifies that in 1867 the Italian national hero Giuseppe Garibaldi (from whom the corso takes its name) stayed in the house while planning his failed attempt to capture Rome. Further along Corso Garibaldi, on the left at no.69 is the entrance to one of the most charming corners in Sarteano, the “Chiostro”. Entering this 15th century courtyard is like taking a step back in time. The Chiostro, palazzo Cennini and annexes were originally all owned by the Cennini family. Later the property was divided and sold to different owners. Today, the Chiostro is part of the Fattoria (farm) di Martignano and agricultural products are stored and processed in its cellars and granaries just as they were hundreds of years ago. On request, the present owners, the Cozzi Lepri family, will arrange visits to the Chiostro and organize food and wine tasting. Locally produced wine and oil may also be purchased here. Small events can also be organised. Continuing along Corso Garibaldi on the left is Palazzo Fraticelli with its carefully restored semi circular walls resembling a tower. Continuing along the Corso you reach a town gate, Porta Monalda, so called because the coat of arms above it is that of the Monaldeschi family from Orvieto who were at one time the rulers of Sarteano. High up inside the arch is a 17th century fresco in a poor state of conservation. Turning back, opposite palazzo Fraticelli, go up via S. Angelo and Via della Pergola, from here turn left into via del Forte until you come to a small square from which you can look out over the new part of the town and in the distance the spa town of Chianciano. Those who wish, can cross the small bridge and follow the pathway for a short distance beneath the imposing walls of the castle. Retracing your steps from the square, after via della Pergola take via del Mandorlo where the walls of the castle are built directly upon huge travertine rock outcrops. On the right, small gardens lie on a level with the roofs of the houses below them. In the distance is the imposing Mount Cetona (1,148 meters), and the road leading to the town of Radicofani where pilgrims could join the via Francigena, the route taken on their pilgrimages from Canterbury to Rome in the middle ages. Further along the road narrows before opening into the Piazzetta della Chiesina (small church): in fact on the left there is a small chapel dedicated to Maria Mater Gratiae (Our Lady of Graces) and beyond it a gate leading to the castle. Built for defence, the castle originally belonged to a noble Sarteanese family, the Manentis. The first known document which makes any reference to the existence of the castle is an agreement which was signed inside the castle in the year 1038. After many battles for dominion between the towns of Siena, Perugia and Orvieto, Sarteano showed a preference to allegiance with Siena and finally in 1265 came almost permanently under Siena’s authority. Between 1467 and 1469 Siena rebuilt the outside wall of the castle and it has remained unaltered since then. In the year 1997/2000 the castle and its grounds were bought by the local council and are now open to the public at the times specified on the castle gates. Opposite the church is the ex residence of the last owners of the castle, the noble Fanelli family. It has a charming private chapel dedicated to the Beato (Blessed) Franco da Grotti. Legend has it that around the year 1280, the commander of the castle of Sarteano was a man named Franco da Grotti. He lived in the midst of violence and wickedness of every kind and was a passionate gambler. He and his soldiers would idle away the long days gambling with dice. One day, having lost all his money, Franco scornfully bet his own eyesight. He lost the game and to his and everyone’s astonishment, he lost his sight too. Deeply shocked by this terrifying phenomenon he became converted to Christianity and completely changed his way of life. He made a pilgrimage to Saint Jacopo di Compostella in Spain, where miraculously he regained his sight. He lived a pious life doing much good for his fellow men until his death.
In 1590, Grand Duke Ferdinand I gave the castle to the Fanelli family for services rendered. The family had direct access by means of an elevated covered walkway which you will walk under as, bearing left you continue up Via dei Lecci. Walk on until you reach the Convent of Santa Chiara which is now a hotel and restaurant. Restoration was begun in 1968 when it was bought by a family from Milan. In 1994 the Morgantini family took over the management and further restoration took place, taking great care to maintain the original architectural features which include the ancient walls of the town and a lookout post. From here the road begins to descend and turning right into Costa di S. Chiara you will eventually reach Piazza S. Martino and the church of the same name. Built in 1841, the Church houses; a painting dated 1545-1546 showing “the Annunciation” by the most renowned Sienese artist of his time, Domenico Beccafumi. Beccafumi’s art is characterized by imaginative design and draughtsmanship and by subtle atmosphere and the play of light and shadow. In addition to painting, from 1520-1547 he also designed and directed 35 scenes of the celebrated inlaid marble floor of the Cathedral of Siena, a task that took over a century and a half to finish. The church also contains a triptych showing a Madonna and child between St John the Baptist and St John the Evangelist by Jacopo di Mino Pellicciaio dated 1344; a painting of the Madonna di Pompei by the sarteanese painter Tullio Morgantini and a panel of the northern school showing San Martino.
The Legend of the Cloak: While Martin was still a soldier at Amiens he experienced the vision that became the most-repeated story about his life. He was at the gates of the city of Amiens with his soldiers when he met a scantily dressed beggar. He impulsively cut his own military cloak in half and shared it with the beggar. That night he dreamed of Jesus wearing the half-cloak Martin had given away. He heard Jesus say to the angels: "Here is Martin, the Roman soldier who is not baptised; he has clad me." (Sulpicius, ch 2). In another story, when Martin woke his cloak was restored, and the miraculous cloak was preserved among the relic collection of the Merovingian kings of the Franks.
The church’s bell tower, although modest, contains one of the oldest bells in Tuscany dated 1282. Coming out of the church, to the left only a short distance away is the gateway called Porta Umbra.
